Tuesday, March 1, 2011
Sunday, October 17, 2010
Jig for Cutting 45 Degree Angle
This is a jig for cutting a 45 degree angle. Works especially great on foam, depron, etc.
Posted by Simply-RC at 7:21 PM 2 comments Links to this post
Labels: Auctions, Radio Control Jets, RC, RC Airplanes, RC Boats, RC Cars, RC Classifieds, RC Discussion Forums, RC Electric Planes, RC Helicopters
FRIDAY, MAY 1, 2009
Posted by Simply-RC at 7:21 PM 2 comments Links to this post
Labels: Auctions, Radio Control Jets, RC, RC Airplanes, RC Boats, RC Cars, RC Classifieds, RC Discussion Forums, RC Electric Planes, RC Helicopters
FRIDAY, MAY 1, 2009
Working and Painting Tips for Fiberglass
Introduction to Fiberglass
When considering the strength compared to the space age canopies that are common on most pod and boom helicopters there is no contest. This plastic material is virtually indestructible at the penalty of being virtually un-paintable without specialized and expensive automotive primers and paints, there is also a very limited range of color available.
Flexibility
A wonderful attribute of fiberglass is in its flexibility. However, fiberglass parts will migrate (change shape) while inside the shipping box. When two mating components are brought together and they do not align or mate, the culprit is a warped part. Many become upset and wish to lay blame but dealing with this is very simple when explained a simple procedure. Using a heat gun set at the high setting at a distance of 1-2 feet away, evenly heat the warped part until the outside surface is hot to the touch and the part has become pliable (flexible). Using adhesive tape, mate the two fiberglass parts together and let both parts sit until both parts have reached room temperature. Remove the tape and now both parts are stable and match one another. In some instances, depending on the location of the warp, the part may need to be held in an overextended position to achieve the proper shape when the part is finished.
Working with Fiberglass
Difficult to work with, we disagree. Fiberglass is easier to repair than you think. Using today’s CA type of adhesives, a severe crack in a fuselage can be simply fixed and the repaired section is much stronger than in its original state. Add touch up paint and no one would ever know it had been damaged. There is a limit to this type of thinking where purchasing the replacement fiberglass part is simply cheaper and less work than performing major reconstructive surgery.
The Paint Job
There is no magic to a good paint job, the true secret is time, patience and common sense. A beginner who thinks that they can throw paint onto a fuselage Friday night before flying on Sunday is dreaming, the helicopter would be flyable but even that is a stretch. The average beginner will spend the better part of a month to apply a good clean paint job.
Preparing the Fuselage for Painting
Examine all the fiberglass components to see where work needs to be done to allow a simple "bring up" of the fuselage. "Bring up" describes the necessary steps to complete all the jobs in order to start priming the fiberglass parts. Typical work that is done at this stage is rough sanding on seams and jointed components, filling of surface imperfections, adding panel lines and rivets, cutting required holes and preparation for priming.
1. Start by thoroughly washing all fiberglass parts in mild detergent and warm water, this will remove any residue remaining from the molding process. Next wipe down all the parts with Acetone (from the hardware store). The Acetone will remove all traces of oil or grease that will affect the adhesion of two fiberglass parts or between the paint and the fiberglass. Now using fine steel wool or an abrasive pad commonly used for scrubbing dishes, scuff all surfaces that will be joined or receiving paint. What is important to note here is that we are breaking through the topmost resin surface and creating the best surface for adhesive or primer to adhere to. The prepared finish will have very fine score marks usually seen when the part is held to the light at a slight angle.
2. This is the time to rough sand any accessories or small parts, using the 320 grit sandpaper, that will be assembled and attached at different positions on the fuselage. These can be marking lights, engine exhausts, scale fuel tanks, horizontal and vertical stabilizers, guns, antenna or any scale details being bonded to the fuselage. These accessories should be test assembled to make sure that all parts are prepared, and you will be able to see any problems that may arise in trying to paint these parts. Some thought should be put into how to hold the part as it is being painted. Go ahead and bond these parts at this time using the slow CA glue. A quick note on adhesives, as the fuselage resin is polyester, do not use any regular 5-30 minute epoxies to bond two fiberglass components together. Stability is specially formulated for this purpose and excellent for fillets. Epoxy and polyester will not bond properly to one another, but epoxy is good to bond unlike substances like wood or metal to themselves or other parts.
3. Once the detail parts have been built into sub assemblies, they are ready to paint, use a filler in sections that have gaps or slight surface imperfections, occasionally there are voids (air bubbles in the resin) that occur near the surface that need to be filled. There are a lot of good fiberglass fillers on the market, it is best to check with your local hobby shop to get a recommended product. Try to stay away from porous fillers designed for wood as they will shrink and are not a good choice for large areas.
4. Most major windows and accessory holes have will have been precut, leaving only those that have a user dependency like the type of exhaust system used on the helicopter or the exact exit position for the cooling fan shroud.
4a. When making cutouts or holes in the surface of the fiberglass the best procedure is to drill a pilot hole using a 1/16" drill bit at corners or along a curve. Start with a permanent marker to draw the opening or window. The pilot holes serve to avoid leaving sharp corners which given the nature of a model will be the focal point for stress cracking originating from corners. Once the holes have been made, use the dremel-tool for all other roughing cuts. The cut off wheel is the best for straight lines and either the sanding drum or the curved stone is used for smoothing edges. If the cut out is a window, do not use the dermel-tool for the final work. Switch to a sanding block, square blocks of various sizes for straight edges and round dowels for rounded corners.
4b. In the case of the exhaust opening, it should end up being 1/8" larger across the outside diameter of the exhaust pipe that extends below the bottom of the fuselage. After drawing the circle, use grinding stone and move in small circles until the hole is at the size wanted.
5. Priming the fuselage accomplishes two tasks: firstly, the primer paint is designed to aggressively adhere to the surface being painted and provide the best surface for the colored paint to adhere to; secondly, all surface imperfections will become visible. Depending on the particular imperfection, light sanding with number 600 or 800 sand paper and the second priming will take care of 90% of the highly visible problems. The remaining 10% need to be filled, let dry, sanded again and then sprayed with the second coat of primer. The primer process will be repeated until the surface is as perfect as your patience and time permit.
6. Select your paint color and follow the directions on the particular brand of paint being used as each manufacturer has different requirements.
When considering the strength compared to the space age canopies that are common on most pod and boom helicopters there is no contest. This plastic material is virtually indestructible at the penalty of being virtually un-paintable without specialized and expensive automotive primers and paints, there is also a very limited range of color available.
Flexibility
A wonderful attribute of fiberglass is in its flexibility. However, fiberglass parts will migrate (change shape) while inside the shipping box. When two mating components are brought together and they do not align or mate, the culprit is a warped part. Many become upset and wish to lay blame but dealing with this is very simple when explained a simple procedure. Using a heat gun set at the high setting at a distance of 1-2 feet away, evenly heat the warped part until the outside surface is hot to the touch and the part has become pliable (flexible). Using adhesive tape, mate the two fiberglass parts together and let both parts sit until both parts have reached room temperature. Remove the tape and now both parts are stable and match one another. In some instances, depending on the location of the warp, the part may need to be held in an overextended position to achieve the proper shape when the part is finished.
Working with Fiberglass
Difficult to work with, we disagree. Fiberglass is easier to repair than you think. Using today’s CA type of adhesives, a severe crack in a fuselage can be simply fixed and the repaired section is much stronger than in its original state. Add touch up paint and no one would ever know it had been damaged. There is a limit to this type of thinking where purchasing the replacement fiberglass part is simply cheaper and less work than performing major reconstructive surgery.
The Paint Job
There is no magic to a good paint job, the true secret is time, patience and common sense. A beginner who thinks that they can throw paint onto a fuselage Friday night before flying on Sunday is dreaming, the helicopter would be flyable but even that is a stretch. The average beginner will spend the better part of a month to apply a good clean paint job.
Preparing the Fuselage for Painting
Examine all the fiberglass components to see where work needs to be done to allow a simple "bring up" of the fuselage. "Bring up" describes the necessary steps to complete all the jobs in order to start priming the fiberglass parts. Typical work that is done at this stage is rough sanding on seams and jointed components, filling of surface imperfections, adding panel lines and rivets, cutting required holes and preparation for priming.
1. Start by thoroughly washing all fiberglass parts in mild detergent and warm water, this will remove any residue remaining from the molding process. Next wipe down all the parts with Acetone (from the hardware store). The Acetone will remove all traces of oil or grease that will affect the adhesion of two fiberglass parts or between the paint and the fiberglass. Now using fine steel wool or an abrasive pad commonly used for scrubbing dishes, scuff all surfaces that will be joined or receiving paint. What is important to note here is that we are breaking through the topmost resin surface and creating the best surface for adhesive or primer to adhere to. The prepared finish will have very fine score marks usually seen when the part is held to the light at a slight angle.
2. This is the time to rough sand any accessories or small parts, using the 320 grit sandpaper, that will be assembled and attached at different positions on the fuselage. These can be marking lights, engine exhausts, scale fuel tanks, horizontal and vertical stabilizers, guns, antenna or any scale details being bonded to the fuselage. These accessories should be test assembled to make sure that all parts are prepared, and you will be able to see any problems that may arise in trying to paint these parts. Some thought should be put into how to hold the part as it is being painted. Go ahead and bond these parts at this time using the slow CA glue. A quick note on adhesives, as the fuselage resin is polyester, do not use any regular 5-30 minute epoxies to bond two fiberglass components together. Stability is specially formulated for this purpose and excellent for fillets. Epoxy and polyester will not bond properly to one another, but epoxy is good to bond unlike substances like wood or metal to themselves or other parts.
3. Once the detail parts have been built into sub assemblies, they are ready to paint, use a filler in sections that have gaps or slight surface imperfections, occasionally there are voids (air bubbles in the resin) that occur near the surface that need to be filled. There are a lot of good fiberglass fillers on the market, it is best to check with your local hobby shop to get a recommended product. Try to stay away from porous fillers designed for wood as they will shrink and are not a good choice for large areas.
4. Most major windows and accessory holes have will have been precut, leaving only those that have a user dependency like the type of exhaust system used on the helicopter or the exact exit position for the cooling fan shroud.
4a. When making cutouts or holes in the surface of the fiberglass the best procedure is to drill a pilot hole using a 1/16" drill bit at corners or along a curve. Start with a permanent marker to draw the opening or window. The pilot holes serve to avoid leaving sharp corners which given the nature of a model will be the focal point for stress cracking originating from corners. Once the holes have been made, use the dremel-tool for all other roughing cuts. The cut off wheel is the best for straight lines and either the sanding drum or the curved stone is used for smoothing edges. If the cut out is a window, do not use the dermel-tool for the final work. Switch to a sanding block, square blocks of various sizes for straight edges and round dowels for rounded corners.
4b. In the case of the exhaust opening, it should end up being 1/8" larger across the outside diameter of the exhaust pipe that extends below the bottom of the fuselage. After drawing the circle, use grinding stone and move in small circles until the hole is at the size wanted.
5. Priming the fuselage accomplishes two tasks: firstly, the primer paint is designed to aggressively adhere to the surface being painted and provide the best surface for the colored paint to adhere to; secondly, all surface imperfections will become visible. Depending on the particular imperfection, light sanding with number 600 or 800 sand paper and the second priming will take care of 90% of the highly visible problems. The remaining 10% need to be filled, let dry, sanded again and then sprayed with the second coat of primer. The primer process will be repeated until the surface is as perfect as your patience and time permit.
6. Select your paint color and follow the directions on the particular brand of paint being used as each manufacturer has different requirements.
Saturday, October 16, 2010
looking for Rc helicopter Price List?
Good deals mean good price(find best rc helicopter price list). I collect somemini rc helicopter price list around. Actually i found many mini rc helicopter price list over the internet. If you want to buy mini rc helicopter, this article can be your first consideration before you buy the mini rc helicopter, such as the price estimates. I wrote some of the mini rc helicopter price list in this article, so keep read on.
DragonFly King RTF 3CH Mini RC Helicopter : This rc helicopter has altitude, rotor speed control and a flight stabilizing system. In addition to that when you combine 2 motors with a super lightweight design and 3 channels of movement, you are sure to have a great flying experience. The Mini DragonFly King comes fully loaded and Ready-to-Fly (RTF). It includes a rechargeable battery pack, & AC adapter charger. Estimate price : $34.99
Mini RC Helicopter Dragonfly Prince : This mini rc helicopter has some feature such as Remote control features a throttle stick, directional stick, and trim control, Mini helicopter operates off of a 3-channel IR system, so 3 different helicopters can be flown in the same area, Auto balancing system makes helicopter easy to operate, Includes helicopter, controller, charger, spare tail propeller, and 9V battery and Super wide IR control system controls helicopter from all angles while reducing battery consumption. Estimates price : $9.90
Walkera Mini RC Helicopter : This mini rc helicopter has only 185mm in overall length with 3g in servo weight with 4-ch telecontroller and marked electricity indication function, you can avoid the crash caused by lack of telecontroller electricity and let you fly at ease.The walkera mini rc helicopter equipped with compact 90 degree swashhplate structure, the servo and other parts are easy to install. The circuitry is integrated with Receiver, ESC, Gyro and Mix with high sensitivity in receiving and strong interference immunity. The walkera mini rc helicopter offer some this great feature: One cell Lipo at 3.7V 400mAh offers 8- to 10-minute flight after fully charged and 4 channel transmitter with visible power indicator can avoid helicopter losing control due to the shortage of battery power, and supp
DragonFly King RTF 3CH Mini RC Helicopter : This rc helicopter has altitude, rotor speed control and a flight stabilizing system. In addition to that when you combine 2 motors with a super lightweight design and 3 channels of movement, you are sure to have a great flying experience. The Mini DragonFly King comes fully loaded and Ready-to-Fly (RTF). It includes a rechargeable battery pack, & AC adapter charger. Estimate price : $34.99
Mini RC Helicopter Dragonfly Prince : This mini rc helicopter has some feature such as Remote control features a throttle stick, directional stick, and trim control, Mini helicopter operates off of a 3-channel IR system, so 3 different helicopters can be flown in the same area, Auto balancing system makes helicopter easy to operate, Includes helicopter, controller, charger, spare tail propeller, and 9V battery and Super wide IR control system controls helicopter from all angles while reducing battery consumption. Estimates price : $9.90
Walkera Mini RC Helicopter : This mini rc helicopter has only 185mm in overall length with 3g in servo weight with 4-ch telecontroller and marked electricity indication function, you can avoid the crash caused by lack of telecontroller electricity and let you fly at ease.The walkera mini rc helicopter equipped with compact 90 degree swashhplate structure, the servo and other parts are easy to install. The circuitry is integrated with Receiver, ESC, Gyro and Mix with high sensitivity in receiving and strong interference immunity. The walkera mini rc helicopter offer some this great feature: One cell Lipo at 3.7V 400mAh offers 8- to 10-minute flight after fully charged and 4 channel transmitter with visible power indicator can avoid helicopter losing control due to the shortage of battery power, and supp
Posts Tagged ‘Blade CX2’
When RC Helicopters Collide
Friday, September 10th, 2010
I trained my friend with a buddy box (LP5DSM) and my DX7 on the E-Flite Blade mSR. Not a single crash and he was ready by himself. He took it by himself and flew it nose out, take off, and land, without crashing. Not bad from only flying coaxial micro RC helicopters. I had my Blade CX2 so I started flying at the same time. We were pretty good hovering them beside each other. Many flights later it happened, they collided. Surprisingly, the Blade mSR won the battle. The Blade CX2 top blade smashed, i think the canopy, of the Blade mSR causing the blade to snap at the end. The Blade mSR, not a scratch. Cool.
I’ve flown the Blade mSR everywhere for the past couple of months and I’ve yet to replace a part. It’s had several careful crashes and falls. The blades are scratched but not cut. I’ve had to clean the motors a few times but other than that it’s been perfect. I would still suggest the Blade CX2 if you want to start flying RC helicopters because it has more power for controlled flight and crashing once will most likely brake it so you’ll try harder to fly with control.
Tags: Blade CX2, blade msr, crash, rc helicopter
Posted in Blade CX2, Blade mSR, Crash Report | No Comments »
RC Helicotpers – 1 Month Summary
Tuesday, August 3rd, 2010
I’ve been flying a few days a week for just over a month now. I’ve been using E-Flite models starting with the Blade CX2 then moving to the Blade SR and the Blade mSR. I started practicing with training wheels and the phoenix flight simulator. I was quick to pick it up and I’m able to push the CX2 to its limits without problems. You can only go so fast with the coaxial models so I upgraded to the Blade SR and picked up an mSR on the side.
The E-Flite Blade CX2 got me started. I bought the RTF kit, extra battery and training gear. I was off the ground first go but only for a few seconds hover. I spent 1 week hovering and moving forward/backward left/right nose out. If you’re lucky to get a windless day take it outside and give yourself some playing room. The Blade CX2 is simple to correct if you lose control. Watch the wind. Even if the trees aren’t blowing there could be small small gusts that will affect the flight. Adding extra weight to the nose and moving the battery forward will help outdoor flights. I’ve crashed the CX2 a few times. I’ve replaced blades, skids, and one crash took out my canopy so I had an excuse to get another one. The main shaft is very slightly bent and noticeable at full throttle but it hasn’t affected the helicopter enough to need replacing. That will be the next repair.
The E-Flite Blade SR got me started on single rotor RC helicopters. I also got the training gear. The Phoenix RC Flight Simulator has the full line of E-Flite models so I flew the Blade SR for a few hours on the Sim before taking it out. My maiden flight was a success and I’ve been practicing basic forward/backward left/right movements nose out. I felt I was comfortable so I tried a simple circle. I ended up correcting a problem the wrong way and smashed it into the ground. I broke the blades, training gear, main gear, tail rod, and blew the tail motor. Fun, and I’ll have more fun undoing the solder to rewire the tail motor…
The E-Flite Blade mSR is the micro version of the Blade SR and my latest addition. It’s basically a very small single rotor helicopter and it’s fully loaded. I got the Bind and Fly kit meaning I can use my existing transmitter to control the Blade mSR. The maiden flight was the best one I’ve had yet. Out of the box, the Blade mSR was performing very well with my limited flying experience. I could fly it comfortably (nose out) in all directions. I brought the helicopter outside and played around with orientation. After just 2 days I’m very comfortable hovering and spot landing it. I own a handful of micro helicopters but the Blade mSR destroys them. If you like booting around every now and then indoors then this is the model for you. Spend the extra money and get into a real micro RC Helicopter.
Tags: Blade CX2, blade msr, Blade SR, micro rc helicopters, phoenix, rc flight simulator, rc helicopter
Posted in Blade CX2, Blade SR, Blade mSR, News, RC Flight Simulator, Training | No Comments »
Progress Report – Week 3
Tuesday, June 22nd, 2010
I’ve had a good 2 weeks with the Blade CX2. I’ve had several flights outside and inside with two crashes to date. One crash was small but the blades knocked and broke them all. The other crash was fast, watch the video, and bent the main shaft slightly but not enough to throw it off.
My swashplate wasn’t level, so I’ve made adjustments to the server arms and pushrods and trimmed the weird rudder movement with the pot on the controller. With all trims centered the helicopter hovers to the best of my abilities. Trimming took a while. You have to make the minor adjustments by disassembling then reassembling for testing. Put a few hours aside if it’s way off, or if you’ve overcorrected by accident. I messed up so be careful. Make very small adjustments, half turns for the server pushrods and very very small turns on the controller pots.
Outside is fun if it’s not windy. There are a few problems with the wind that really take down the Blade CX2. First is the design. It’s not meant for outdoor flight because the model doesn’t have a rudder and the coaxial blades just can’t cut the wind. But it’s definitely not impossible. Try flying with the wind and maybe trim some forward cyclic. The rudder will swing if the wind hits it so have good orientation, my 3 weeks is ok in calm calm wind. I’ve gotten in going pretty fast with a little wind, but I’ve had to slow it down fast by swinging the rudder in the opposite direction giving throttle and correcting. Be prepared for the worst because you’re already taking risks being outside if this is your first helicopter.
Until next time…
Tags: beginner, Blade CX2, rc helicopter
Posted in News | No Comments »
How To Level The Swashplate
Tuesday, June 15th, 2010
So I got my E-Flight Blade CX2 Ready To Fly (RTF out of the box), and it wasn’t so RTF. I made a big mistake and not figure out the workings of the helicopter before flying it. I noticed I had to use a lot of right rudder trim to compensate the left rudder movement. It definitely wasn’t normal, so I took the helicopter apart and noticed everything was off!
I had one crash before the adjustment, but I’m convinced it was shipped this way from day 1. The swashplate isn’t level, and the servo pushrod isn’t 90 degrees to the server arm. There was quite a difference when I moved the server pushrod on the second notch, but not perfect enough to level the swashplate.
I had a big problem. After I made the adjustments I thought everything was level, it was not, in fact it wasn’t even capable of taking off at this point. I always underestimate this helicopter thinking you can just whiz by a couple forum posts and fix everything. These are delicate machines, even the blade cx2, and you have to understand exactly what does what so you fix it. So far everything I’ve tried has failed multiple times and that just sucks. I’m not giving up. So when I got home today I went back to the books and read everything over and over again. In the end, with only about 2 hours of research and work on swashplate leveling, I was hovering better then ever, and much better then out of the box. The best I can do is trim 2 clicks left rudder for perfect hover .
How I fixed a serious left nose rudder drift, elevator and aileron drift.
I made a great mistake and seriously destroyed the balance of my helicopter by doing everything wrong to fix a minor drift. I’m sorry I won’t get into too much technical detail so watch the video for more info.
Adjusting Rudder Drift
The Main Motor Proportional Mix Trimmer Pot can be found on the left side of the control unit. This “proportional” trimmer pot adjusts the amount of mixing between the main motors allowing you to fine-tune the rudder trim (sub-trim) to help prevent the nose from drifting to the left or right when in hover.
Note the direction the nose of the helicopter is trying to drift with the rudder trim centered and no rudder input.
Power off and remove the shell of the helicopter.
Turn the Main Motor Proportional Mix in the rotation required to correct the drift. If the nose is drifting to the left, you will want to increase power to the right-hand motor (spinning the upper main rotor blade), by turning the Proportional trimmer pot clockwise (+).
Hover the helicopter and make finer adjustments as needed.
Adjusting Elevator (forward/backward) Drift – The Swashplate
If your helicopter is drifting forward or backward you can first take a look at the elevator server arm and pushrod and make sure the swashplate is level. If your helicopter is also drifting left and right, adjust the aileron server after the elevator. Why? Because this process works great for me and I’m sticking to it.
Remove the shell. Center the trims and power on the transmitter, then plug in the battery to the helicopter. You want to make these adjustments while it is turned on so the servos stay centered. Unplug the motor power for safety.
Align the server arm with server pushrod. The elevator servo is on the right of the helicopter looking from the back. First you will want to check if the servo pushrod and arm are 90 to each other. If they aren’t then you will need to move the pushrod into another hole in the arm. First, remove the screw holding the arm in, pull off the arm and disconnect the pushrod. Put it back in the opposite order.
Align the swashplate. You can eyeball this but it’s best to hover the helicopter and make small adjustments. If you were to eyeball it, good luck, just make sure the swashplate is level in relation to the rotational plane of the main rotor blades.
Hover the helicopter and make finer adjustments as needed.
Adjusting Elevator (forward/backward) Drift – The Swashplate
If your helicopter is drifting left or right, use the same method here just on the opposite server. From looking at the back of the helicopter the aileron server is on the right.
Remove the shell. Center the trims and power on the transmitter, then plug in the battery to the helicopter. You want to make these adjustments while it is turned on so the servos stay centered. Unplug the motor power for safety.
Align server arm with server pushrod. The aileron servo is on the right of the helicopter looking from the back. First you will want to check if the servo pushrod and arm are 90 to each other. If they aren’t then you will need to move the pushrod into another hole in the arm. First, remove the screw holding the arm in, pull off the arm and disconnect the pushrod. Put it back in the opposite order.
Align the swashplate by removing the server pushrod and extending or screwing in the metal connector. Your smallest adjustment can be 1/2 turn. Again, I wouldn’t recommend the eyeball method to align it.
Hover the helicopter and make finer adjustments as needed.
Let me know if you’ve got any questions and I’ll try to answer them.
Good luck!
Tags: Blade CX2, Maintenance, rc helicopter, swashplate
Posted in Blade CX2, Maintenance | No Comments »
Blade CX2 Crash – Full Speed Fail
Sunday, June 13th, 2010
Friday, September 10th, 2010
I trained my friend with a buddy box (LP5DSM) and my DX7 on the E-Flite Blade mSR. Not a single crash and he was ready by himself. He took it by himself and flew it nose out, take off, and land, without crashing. Not bad from only flying coaxial micro RC helicopters. I had my Blade CX2 so I started flying at the same time. We were pretty good hovering them beside each other. Many flights later it happened, they collided. Surprisingly, the Blade mSR won the battle. The Blade CX2 top blade smashed, i think the canopy, of the Blade mSR causing the blade to snap at the end. The Blade mSR, not a scratch. Cool.
I’ve flown the Blade mSR everywhere for the past couple of months and I’ve yet to replace a part. It’s had several careful crashes and falls. The blades are scratched but not cut. I’ve had to clean the motors a few times but other than that it’s been perfect. I would still suggest the Blade CX2 if you want to start flying RC helicopters because it has more power for controlled flight and crashing once will most likely brake it so you’ll try harder to fly with control.
Tags: Blade CX2, blade msr, crash, rc helicopter
Posted in Blade CX2, Blade mSR, Crash Report | No Comments »
RC Helicotpers – 1 Month Summary
Tuesday, August 3rd, 2010
I’ve been flying a few days a week for just over a month now. I’ve been using E-Flite models starting with the Blade CX2 then moving to the Blade SR and the Blade mSR. I started practicing with training wheels and the phoenix flight simulator. I was quick to pick it up and I’m able to push the CX2 to its limits without problems. You can only go so fast with the coaxial models so I upgraded to the Blade SR and picked up an mSR on the side.
The E-Flite Blade CX2 got me started. I bought the RTF kit, extra battery and training gear. I was off the ground first go but only for a few seconds hover. I spent 1 week hovering and moving forward/backward left/right nose out. If you’re lucky to get a windless day take it outside and give yourself some playing room. The Blade CX2 is simple to correct if you lose control. Watch the wind. Even if the trees aren’t blowing there could be small small gusts that will affect the flight. Adding extra weight to the nose and moving the battery forward will help outdoor flights. I’ve crashed the CX2 a few times. I’ve replaced blades, skids, and one crash took out my canopy so I had an excuse to get another one. The main shaft is very slightly bent and noticeable at full throttle but it hasn’t affected the helicopter enough to need replacing. That will be the next repair.
The E-Flite Blade SR got me started on single rotor RC helicopters. I also got the training gear. The Phoenix RC Flight Simulator has the full line of E-Flite models so I flew the Blade SR for a few hours on the Sim before taking it out. My maiden flight was a success and I’ve been practicing basic forward/backward left/right movements nose out. I felt I was comfortable so I tried a simple circle. I ended up correcting a problem the wrong way and smashed it into the ground. I broke the blades, training gear, main gear, tail rod, and blew the tail motor. Fun, and I’ll have more fun undoing the solder to rewire the tail motor…
The E-Flite Blade mSR is the micro version of the Blade SR and my latest addition. It’s basically a very small single rotor helicopter and it’s fully loaded. I got the Bind and Fly kit meaning I can use my existing transmitter to control the Blade mSR. The maiden flight was the best one I’ve had yet. Out of the box, the Blade mSR was performing very well with my limited flying experience. I could fly it comfortably (nose out) in all directions. I brought the helicopter outside and played around with orientation. After just 2 days I’m very comfortable hovering and spot landing it. I own a handful of micro helicopters but the Blade mSR destroys them. If you like booting around every now and then indoors then this is the model for you. Spend the extra money and get into a real micro RC Helicopter.
Tags: Blade CX2, blade msr, Blade SR, micro rc helicopters, phoenix, rc flight simulator, rc helicopter
Posted in Blade CX2, Blade SR, Blade mSR, News, RC Flight Simulator, Training | No Comments »
Progress Report – Week 3
Tuesday, June 22nd, 2010
I’ve had a good 2 weeks with the Blade CX2. I’ve had several flights outside and inside with two crashes to date. One crash was small but the blades knocked and broke them all. The other crash was fast, watch the video, and bent the main shaft slightly but not enough to throw it off.
My swashplate wasn’t level, so I’ve made adjustments to the server arms and pushrods and trimmed the weird rudder movement with the pot on the controller. With all trims centered the helicopter hovers to the best of my abilities. Trimming took a while. You have to make the minor adjustments by disassembling then reassembling for testing. Put a few hours aside if it’s way off, or if you’ve overcorrected by accident. I messed up so be careful. Make very small adjustments, half turns for the server pushrods and very very small turns on the controller pots.
Outside is fun if it’s not windy. There are a few problems with the wind that really take down the Blade CX2. First is the design. It’s not meant for outdoor flight because the model doesn’t have a rudder and the coaxial blades just can’t cut the wind. But it’s definitely not impossible. Try flying with the wind and maybe trim some forward cyclic. The rudder will swing if the wind hits it so have good orientation, my 3 weeks is ok in calm calm wind. I’ve gotten in going pretty fast with a little wind, but I’ve had to slow it down fast by swinging the rudder in the opposite direction giving throttle and correcting. Be prepared for the worst because you’re already taking risks being outside if this is your first helicopter.
Until next time…
Tags: beginner, Blade CX2, rc helicopter
Posted in News | No Comments »
How To Level The Swashplate
Tuesday, June 15th, 2010
So I got my E-Flight Blade CX2 Ready To Fly (RTF out of the box), and it wasn’t so RTF. I made a big mistake and not figure out the workings of the helicopter before flying it. I noticed I had to use a lot of right rudder trim to compensate the left rudder movement. It definitely wasn’t normal, so I took the helicopter apart and noticed everything was off!
I had one crash before the adjustment, but I’m convinced it was shipped this way from day 1. The swashplate isn’t level, and the servo pushrod isn’t 90 degrees to the server arm. There was quite a difference when I moved the server pushrod on the second notch, but not perfect enough to level the swashplate.
I had a big problem. After I made the adjustments I thought everything was level, it was not, in fact it wasn’t even capable of taking off at this point. I always underestimate this helicopter thinking you can just whiz by a couple forum posts and fix everything. These are delicate machines, even the blade cx2, and you have to understand exactly what does what so you fix it. So far everything I’ve tried has failed multiple times and that just sucks. I’m not giving up. So when I got home today I went back to the books and read everything over and over again. In the end, with only about 2 hours of research and work on swashplate leveling, I was hovering better then ever, and much better then out of the box. The best I can do is trim 2 clicks left rudder for perfect hover .
How I fixed a serious left nose rudder drift, elevator and aileron drift.
I made a great mistake and seriously destroyed the balance of my helicopter by doing everything wrong to fix a minor drift. I’m sorry I won’t get into too much technical detail so watch the video for more info.
Adjusting Rudder Drift
The Main Motor Proportional Mix Trimmer Pot can be found on the left side of the control unit. This “proportional” trimmer pot adjusts the amount of mixing between the main motors allowing you to fine-tune the rudder trim (sub-trim) to help prevent the nose from drifting to the left or right when in hover.
Note the direction the nose of the helicopter is trying to drift with the rudder trim centered and no rudder input.
Power off and remove the shell of the helicopter.
Turn the Main Motor Proportional Mix in the rotation required to correct the drift. If the nose is drifting to the left, you will want to increase power to the right-hand motor (spinning the upper main rotor blade), by turning the Proportional trimmer pot clockwise (+).
Hover the helicopter and make finer adjustments as needed.
Adjusting Elevator (forward/backward) Drift – The Swashplate
If your helicopter is drifting forward or backward you can first take a look at the elevator server arm and pushrod and make sure the swashplate is level. If your helicopter is also drifting left and right, adjust the aileron server after the elevator. Why? Because this process works great for me and I’m sticking to it.
Remove the shell. Center the trims and power on the transmitter, then plug in the battery to the helicopter. You want to make these adjustments while it is turned on so the servos stay centered. Unplug the motor power for safety.
Align the server arm with server pushrod. The elevator servo is on the right of the helicopter looking from the back. First you will want to check if the servo pushrod and arm are 90 to each other. If they aren’t then you will need to move the pushrod into another hole in the arm. First, remove the screw holding the arm in, pull off the arm and disconnect the pushrod. Put it back in the opposite order.
Align the swashplate. You can eyeball this but it’s best to hover the helicopter and make small adjustments. If you were to eyeball it, good luck, just make sure the swashplate is level in relation to the rotational plane of the main rotor blades.
Hover the helicopter and make finer adjustments as needed.
Adjusting Elevator (forward/backward) Drift – The Swashplate
If your helicopter is drifting left or right, use the same method here just on the opposite server. From looking at the back of the helicopter the aileron server is on the right.
Remove the shell. Center the trims and power on the transmitter, then plug in the battery to the helicopter. You want to make these adjustments while it is turned on so the servos stay centered. Unplug the motor power for safety.
Align server arm with server pushrod. The aileron servo is on the right of the helicopter looking from the back. First you will want to check if the servo pushrod and arm are 90 to each other. If they aren’t then you will need to move the pushrod into another hole in the arm. First, remove the screw holding the arm in, pull off the arm and disconnect the pushrod. Put it back in the opposite order.
Align the swashplate by removing the server pushrod and extending or screwing in the metal connector. Your smallest adjustment can be 1/2 turn. Again, I wouldn’t recommend the eyeball method to align it.
Hover the helicopter and make finer adjustments as needed.
Let me know if you’ve got any questions and I’ll try to answer them.
Good luck!
Tags: Blade CX2, Maintenance, rc helicopter, swashplate
Posted in Blade CX2, Maintenance | No Comments »
Blade CX2 Crash – Full Speed Fail
Sunday, June 13th, 2010
Posts Tagged ‘e-flight’
E-Flite Blade 120 SR Pictures
Friday, August 27th, 2010
Pictures of my Blade 120 SR. Click on the image for full size.
Tags: blade 120 sr, e-flight, e-flite, pictures
Posted in Blade 120 SR, Pictures | No Comments »
Blade mSR Hits the Water
Thursday, August 26th, 2010
It was always in the back of my mind, what if it crashed into the cat water bowl? Well, I picked the wrong day to try the throttle hold. I stumbled and hit the wrong switch to turn it off and it kept going. It was fast into the corner and dropped right down in the water dish. It’s a big bowl and it fell upright in 2 inches of water. The light stayed on but all I cared about was the LiPo battery because I’ve heard of the horror stories. I slowly yanked it out of the water and disconnected the battery. The circuit board had water about 3mm from the bottom up and water drops all over it. But the light stayed on? The hairdryer dried it off and it was like nothing happened. Wow.
Tags: blade msr, crash, e-flight, water
Posted in Blade mSR, Crash Report, News | No Comments »
RC Helicopter LiPo Batteries
Thursday, August 12th, 2010
RC Helicopter Lithium Polymer (LiPo) Batteries
Let’s talk batteries. As we advance in technology electric flying has become more feasible in terms of flying time. Lithum Polymer (LiPo) batteries are able to maintain high current neccessary for high performance aerobatics while still remaining light. An average flight time can vary from 4-12 minutes depending on your flying style.
Rechargeable LiPo batteries can have a dramatic impact on the performance of your model. If you’re not educated in their usage you may damage or reduce thelife of the battery cells before they’re even used for the first time.
The Basics
A battery pack is constructed from a number of individual batteries, called cells, that have been connected together to work as a single pack. The most common cell connection for battery packs in RC Helicopters is called “Series”. This is where the positive terminal of one of the cells is wired to the negative terminal of another cell. You can incrase the output voltage with this method. When wired in series, you take the individual voltage and multiply that by the number of cells in the pack to get the total nominal voltage.
The Science
Lithium Polymer (LiPo) cells are the latest in technology to hit the market. LiPo batteries are known to have a more consistant average voltage over the discarge curve when compared to NiCd or NiMH cells. It also has a a higher nominal voltage of a single LiPo cell (3.7v verses 1.2v for a typical NiCd or NiMH cell. This makes a smaller and lighter battery for the equivelant power or even higher total nominal voltage. The size from NiCD or NiMH to LiPo is often half.
Safety
A LiPo cell needs to be carefully monitored during charging as overcharging a cell to beyound 4.2V, or the cha charging of a physically damanged or overdischarged call (<3.0v) can be a potential fire hazard. Taking neccessary safetly precautions when working with LiPo batteris will keep you safe and likely increase the life of the battery.
Charging
Use a charged that can correctly charge using a constant current and voltage. Note that LiPo cells can not be “Peak Charged”. Discharging the battery is just as important as charging in regards to safety and the life of the battery. You should never over-discharge a LiPo battery pack to below 3.0v per cell under load. You can use an ESC programmed to provide the proper low voltage cutoff for you pack. For example, a 9v cutoff for a 3 series LiPo battery pack. Keep in mind you should never dead short a LiPo battery pack. The large amount of energy stored in the small package can catch fire quickly as a result of a dead short.
Tags: batteries, e-flight, e-flite, lipo, rc helicopter
Posted in Batteries, Blade CX2, Blade SR, Blade mSR, News | No Comments »
Blade CX2 Crash – Full Speed Fail
Sunday, June 13th, 2010
I spoke too soon! Here’s a great example of how durable the E-Flight Blade CX2 is. Mind the sensitive mic at points.
I had been flying all day without any problems, basically taking way to many risks with the Blade CX2 RC helicopter around a baseball park. I’ve got a Logitech 9000 stapped to my hat with a USB extension cord. Make sure you’re watching this in HD! This was clearly a pilot error, but I would hardly call myself a pilot . My mistake was freaking out and dropping the throttle slightly and I lost lift.
End result, full speed nose dive into the grass with a few summersaults.
Tags: Blade CX2, crash, e-flight, full speed, outside
Posted in Blade CX2, Crash Report | No Comments »
E-Flite Blade CX2
Wednesday, June 2nd, 2010
I walked into my local hobby store and walked out with a Blade CX2. The salesmen sold me a beginner model that works out of the box, for the most part. It came complete with transmitter, Li Po battery and charger, small parts for maintenance with tool, 4 AA’s for the transmitter, and manual with DVD. You can also charge using a 12v car battery with the aligator clips included. I bought replacement blades and skid plate for the inevitable, a training kit, and an extra battery.
I was ready to go. Since I’m a beginner I figured the trainer gear was necessary, good call. Here’s a video on how to install the training gear. manual had a great section on how to get them on. I charged the battery as instructed and put it in the helicopter. The front body was finicky to remove but it needed to make sure the servos were working. Everything was fine so I put it on the ground and gave it throttle. I made my first mistake by not turning the throttle trim down before turning the transmitter on. Good thing the controller knows the transmitter isn’t producing any throttle and shuts down the motors if they are. I hit myself and went back to the manual. I’m a video gamer, sure, I skipped sections and I’m not proud of it, okay?
Update:
I wouldn’t call myself a beginner flyer anymore and the Blade CX2 has proved worthy. If I need more power and the micro isn’t cutting it, I’ll bring out the CX2.
The Details
The E-Flite Blade CX2 is a coaxial LiPo battery electric powered RC Helicopter. It’s not a micro RC helicopter so you’ll get a little more size and power, quite a bit compared to a micro. This CX2 was designed to introduce new flyers into the hobby. It’s easy to fly but you won’t get away with crashing it if you own a Blade mSR. It will break and expect repairs when the inevitable happens.
Out of the box:
- 5-channel transmitter with built-in Spektrum™ 2.4GHz DSM technology
- 2-cell 7.4V 800mAh LiPo battery pack
- 2–3 Cell DC LiPo Balancing Charger and AC Adapter
- Blade Cx2 Helicopter model
- Manual with a Instructional Video
- 4 AA Batteries for transmitter
- Bind Plug, Micro screwdriver, Velcro material and Double sided tape
Specifications:
- Main Rotor Diameter: 13.6 in (345mm)
- Gross Weight: 8.0 oz (227 g with battery)
- Length: 16.42 (417mm)
- Motor Size: 180 (2 installed)
- Control System: 2.4GHz DSM 5-channel, 4-in-1 receiver/mixer/ESC/gyro, S60 Super Sub-Micro
This was my first RC helicopter and I’ve had several flights on it since. It only took less then one week to get comfortable flying it. It’s a great coaxial helicopter but it will struggle in slight wind. It’s meant for indoors but you can get away with it outside as long as it’s completely calm. This model also makes a perfect gift because everything is packed in the box, ready to fly.
Friday, August 27th, 2010
Pictures of my Blade 120 SR. Click on the image for full size.
Tags: blade 120 sr, e-flight, e-flite, pictures
Posted in Blade 120 SR, Pictures | No Comments »
Blade mSR Hits the Water
Thursday, August 26th, 2010
It was always in the back of my mind, what if it crashed into the cat water bowl? Well, I picked the wrong day to try the throttle hold. I stumbled and hit the wrong switch to turn it off and it kept going. It was fast into the corner and dropped right down in the water dish. It’s a big bowl and it fell upright in 2 inches of water. The light stayed on but all I cared about was the LiPo battery because I’ve heard of the horror stories. I slowly yanked it out of the water and disconnected the battery. The circuit board had water about 3mm from the bottom up and water drops all over it. But the light stayed on? The hairdryer dried it off and it was like nothing happened. Wow.
Tags: blade msr, crash, e-flight, water
Posted in Blade mSR, Crash Report, News | No Comments »
RC Helicopter LiPo Batteries
Thursday, August 12th, 2010
RC Helicopter Lithium Polymer (LiPo) Batteries
Let’s talk batteries. As we advance in technology electric flying has become more feasible in terms of flying time. Lithum Polymer (LiPo) batteries are able to maintain high current neccessary for high performance aerobatics while still remaining light. An average flight time can vary from 4-12 minutes depending on your flying style.
Rechargeable LiPo batteries can have a dramatic impact on the performance of your model. If you’re not educated in their usage you may damage or reduce thelife of the battery cells before they’re even used for the first time.
The Basics
A battery pack is constructed from a number of individual batteries, called cells, that have been connected together to work as a single pack. The most common cell connection for battery packs in RC Helicopters is called “Series”. This is where the positive terminal of one of the cells is wired to the negative terminal of another cell. You can incrase the output voltage with this method. When wired in series, you take the individual voltage and multiply that by the number of cells in the pack to get the total nominal voltage.
The Science
Lithium Polymer (LiPo) cells are the latest in technology to hit the market. LiPo batteries are known to have a more consistant average voltage over the discarge curve when compared to NiCd or NiMH cells. It also has a a higher nominal voltage of a single LiPo cell (3.7v verses 1.2v for a typical NiCd or NiMH cell. This makes a smaller and lighter battery for the equivelant power or even higher total nominal voltage. The size from NiCD or NiMH to LiPo is often half.
Safety
A LiPo cell needs to be carefully monitored during charging as overcharging a cell to beyound 4.2V, or the cha charging of a physically damanged or overdischarged call (<3.0v) can be a potential fire hazard. Taking neccessary safetly precautions when working with LiPo batteris will keep you safe and likely increase the life of the battery.
Charging
Use a charged that can correctly charge using a constant current and voltage. Note that LiPo cells can not be “Peak Charged”. Discharging the battery is just as important as charging in regards to safety and the life of the battery. You should never over-discharge a LiPo battery pack to below 3.0v per cell under load. You can use an ESC programmed to provide the proper low voltage cutoff for you pack. For example, a 9v cutoff for a 3 series LiPo battery pack. Keep in mind you should never dead short a LiPo battery pack. The large amount of energy stored in the small package can catch fire quickly as a result of a dead short.
Tags: batteries, e-flight, e-flite, lipo, rc helicopter
Posted in Batteries, Blade CX2, Blade SR, Blade mSR, News | No Comments »
Blade CX2 Crash – Full Speed Fail
Sunday, June 13th, 2010
I spoke too soon! Here’s a great example of how durable the E-Flight Blade CX2 is. Mind the sensitive mic at points.
I had been flying all day without any problems, basically taking way to many risks with the Blade CX2 RC helicopter around a baseball park. I’ve got a Logitech 9000 stapped to my hat with a USB extension cord. Make sure you’re watching this in HD! This was clearly a pilot error, but I would hardly call myself a pilot . My mistake was freaking out and dropping the throttle slightly and I lost lift.
End result, full speed nose dive into the grass with a few summersaults.
Tags: Blade CX2, crash, e-flight, full speed, outside
Posted in Blade CX2, Crash Report | No Comments »
E-Flite Blade CX2
Wednesday, June 2nd, 2010
I walked into my local hobby store and walked out with a Blade CX2. The salesmen sold me a beginner model that works out of the box, for the most part. It came complete with transmitter, Li Po battery and charger, small parts for maintenance with tool, 4 AA’s for the transmitter, and manual with DVD. You can also charge using a 12v car battery with the aligator clips included. I bought replacement blades and skid plate for the inevitable, a training kit, and an extra battery.
I was ready to go. Since I’m a beginner I figured the trainer gear was necessary, good call. Here’s a video on how to install the training gear. manual had a great section on how to get them on. I charged the battery as instructed and put it in the helicopter. The front body was finicky to remove but it needed to make sure the servos were working. Everything was fine so I put it on the ground and gave it throttle. I made my first mistake by not turning the throttle trim down before turning the transmitter on. Good thing the controller knows the transmitter isn’t producing any throttle and shuts down the motors if they are. I hit myself and went back to the manual. I’m a video gamer, sure, I skipped sections and I’m not proud of it, okay?
Update:
I wouldn’t call myself a beginner flyer anymore and the Blade CX2 has proved worthy. If I need more power and the micro isn’t cutting it, I’ll bring out the CX2.
The Details
The E-Flite Blade CX2 is a coaxial LiPo battery electric powered RC Helicopter. It’s not a micro RC helicopter so you’ll get a little more size and power, quite a bit compared to a micro. This CX2 was designed to introduce new flyers into the hobby. It’s easy to fly but you won’t get away with crashing it if you own a Blade mSR. It will break and expect repairs when the inevitable happens.
Out of the box:
- 5-channel transmitter with built-in Spektrum™ 2.4GHz DSM technology
- 2-cell 7.4V 800mAh LiPo battery pack
- 2–3 Cell DC LiPo Balancing Charger and AC Adapter
- Blade Cx2 Helicopter model
- Manual with a Instructional Video
- 4 AA Batteries for transmitter
- Bind Plug, Micro screwdriver, Velcro material and Double sided tape
Specifications:
- Main Rotor Diameter: 13.6 in (345mm)
- Gross Weight: 8.0 oz (227 g with battery)
- Length: 16.42 (417mm)
- Motor Size: 180 (2 installed)
- Control System: 2.4GHz DSM 5-channel, 4-in-1 receiver/mixer/ESC/gyro, S60 Super Sub-Micro
This was my first RC helicopter and I’ve had several flights on it since. It only took less then one week to get comfortable flying it. It’s a great coaxial helicopter but it will struggle in slight wind. It’s meant for indoors but you can get away with it outside as long as it’s completely calm. This model also makes a perfect gift because everything is packed in the box, ready to fly.
MINI RC HELICOPTER CAMERA
About Mini RC HELICOPTER Camera
Buy rc helicopter camera best quality. The mini rc helicopter camera is one of latest mini rc helicopter technology. RC helicopter camera is smallest one in size, even you can hide the camera anywhere undetected!. I think this is one of best spy gadget in the world (spy camera). The mini rc helicopter camera known as helicam also. This is a kind of micro video camcorder. The rc helicopter camera can be mounted on the rc helicopter, so you can make a video such as for aerial video or you can use it as spy camcorder too.
Actually the micro video camcorder can be used not only for your rc airplanes and rc helicopter but you can installed it in your another rc model such as rc cars. Sometime you will get a free 2GB memory(support up to 4GB) card that can record up to one and half hour. The mini rc helicopter camera has a high quality video(648x480pixels) and only 18 grams in weights. Ideal for both covert camera & hidden camera, small enough to be taken almost anywhere!
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Mini RC Helicopter Camera Recorder
The mini interview recorder includes:
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Some Mini RC Helicopter Camera Feature
Here are some best mini rc helicopter camera feature you can get :
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* Tiny size makes it ideal for a variety of uses
* It’s great for use as a hidden camera etc.
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Waht To Buy Mini RC Helicopter Camera?
I think it's time to buy a mini rc helicopter camera. You can purchase a mini rc helicopter camera in your hobby shop. The price is about $58, but make sure it's already in stock!.
Mini RC Helicopter camera article from mini rc helicopter category
Related Mini RC Helicopter Camera article
RC helicopter camera mount
RC helicopter camera hd
RC helicopter photography
Nitro planes mini camera
Buy rc helicopter camera best quality. The mini rc helicopter camera is one of latest mini rc helicopter technology. RC helicopter camera is smallest one in size, even you can hide the camera anywhere undetected!. I think this is one of best spy gadget in the world (spy camera). The mini rc helicopter camera known as helicam also. This is a kind of micro video camcorder. The rc helicopter camera can be mounted on the rc helicopter, so you can make a video such as for aerial video or you can use it as spy camcorder too.
Actually the micro video camcorder can be used not only for your rc airplanes and rc helicopter but you can installed it in your another rc model such as rc cars. Sometime you will get a free 2GB memory(support up to 4GB) card that can record up to one and half hour. The mini rc helicopter camera has a high quality video(648x480pixels) and only 18 grams in weights. Ideal for both covert camera & hidden camera, small enough to be taken almost anywhere!
Wherever you place your mini camera, you’ll know for sure that you won’t miss anything. Ideal First Person View (FPV) system for radio controlled airplanes, cars and helicopters!
Mini RC Helicopter Camera Recorder
The mini interview recorder includes:
* Mini Interview Recorder
* USB cable
* User manual
* 2GB Micro SD Memory Card - Can store up to 1 Hour and 20 Minutes of Video!
Some Mini RC Helicopter Camera Feature
Here are some best mini rc helicopter camera feature you can get :
* Dimension:73mm*20mm*11mm
* Weight:18g
* Tiny size makes it ideal for a variety of uses
* It’s great for use as a hidden camera etc.
* Real time recording in AVI video format.
* Color video with voice lets you clearly see who’s there &hear what they say.
* Place it up high or conceal it down low. With built-in rechargeable battery so there’s no long cord for you to hide.
* Use micro SD card from 128MB to 4GB - Included FREE 2GB Memory Card
* Playback video on cell phone or PC
Waht To Buy Mini RC Helicopter Camera?
I think it's time to buy a mini rc helicopter camera. You can purchase a mini rc helicopter camera in your hobby shop. The price is about $58, but make sure it's already in stock!.
Mini RC Helicopter camera article from mini rc helicopter category
Related Mini RC Helicopter Camera article
RC helicopter camera mount
RC helicopter camera hd
RC helicopter photography
Nitro planes mini camera
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